Currents, waves and sediment transport around the headland of Pt. Dume, California
Pt. Dume, in Malibu, California, is a special place for surfers with peeling barrels in the right conditions. That may be due to the sand bars that form around the point – but there’s been no scientific consensus about how much sand is actually moving around the headland. I set out to test my theories of sediment transport in the field as part of my dissertation in 2014. After 75 days of data were gathered, including during hurricane swell, I built the first true observational study at Pt. Dume. I published a journal article in Continental Shelf Research and presented a poster at Ocean Sciences 2016 in New Orleans, LA.
Please click on the image of the poster to view the Continental Shelf Research publication.